Avalon Greene's Place

Info, reviews and fun stuff!

Ever had problems with power for your projects? You just want to test it but no adaptar with the right voltage. Or using 9V batteries for testing, which aren’t cheap. Well, I have the same problem. And well as I don’t have the cash to buy myself a high-tech professional lab power supply I decided to make one myself.

Just to let you know. This power supply uses a old computer ATX power supply. I know these ain’t the most reliable power supply’s for PIC’s and such. But for my purposes it is just perfect. A nice part of a ATX power supply is that it already delivers certain outputs these are +3.3V, -5V, +5V, -12V and +12V. With these output’s I can even combine. By using the -12V together with the +12V I can get a 24V output. But wouldn’t it be nicer if we could actually control the 24 output and make it variable from min till max output?

But enough of the technical stuff for now. Let us focus on what I want this thing to actually do and list it down.

• A on and off switch with light indicator,
• A variable output from around the 0V till 24V,
• Several outputs from +3.3V, -5V, +5V, -12V and +12V,
• A 0V (GND) output,
• Several USB connectors (5V) for charging and testing.

These things are pretty easy to build and will be certain build in the power supply. But I also have a few options which are still floating in my head and thinking about giving that also a place in the power supply. Here a little list of those items.

• A testing unit for LED’s,
• A testing unit for fuse’s,
• Volt and Ampere display for the variable output (even possible to make this to be used as a simple Volt/Ampere meter for circuits),
• Circuit tester.

One thing I should also think about is the casing for the whole power supply. First I wanted to build it in the old PC case. But after thinking more about it I realised that the PC case is a bit of a overkill. Yes, it is big so it offers alot of space for all components. But I can’t say it is easy to transport around. Online I seen a few other people do the same but they build everything in the power supply. On one side this is a good idea, however the downside is when the power supply dies you got to pull out all of the components and stuff and build it into a new one. And I want to build it so that when the supply dies, I can swap it out with a new one. Also the powersupply itself doesn’t have enough room for me to build in everything I want to build in it.

I have found a nice housing for my power supply. Just this item also has a few downside’s. First of all and most important, THE PRICE. This piece of plastic costs around the 60 euro’s. Now, I am not a cheap ass. But to pay so much for a housing is to much. A other downside is that I am not sure if the supply will fit in it or the extra’s I want. I could make the power supply to fit in it. But then it wouldn’t be easy to change the supply if it is broke.

Now, while I know what I want I can start with harvisting the supply’s I need and keep my eye out for the perfect housing (or not!).

So, I got this little Wall-E from someone really nice. And she sent it to me so I could do some mad scientist work on it. Well, ofcourse I would like to improve it. Just have no idea how.

I have a few little idea’s.

• Wall-E USB charger: Adding USB sockets in his stomach to charge up USB powered devices.
• Wall-E Card reader: Use his stomach to fit in a card reader.
• Wall-E Digital clock: Try to find a nice small digital clock and build it in his stomach.
• Wall-E Default: He is cute anyway. Why fuck it up?
• Wall-E Wireless project: Dude, you got enough time (not). Build a Bluetooth storage device in it!
• Wall-E Webcam: Score a cheap webcam and build it in the stomach.
• Wall-E …………..: ……………………………………………………………… .

So yea, feedback is welcome

There are a bunch of cool CNC projects out there that help you build your own CNC machine. But what Adran did is a nice option. Instead of a normal CNC machine he made a Dremel Duplicator.

I have a Dremel and have been buying various router bits for it lately. I was thinking that I could buy one of those Dremel Router tables but, that would be kind of limiting. So then I thought what about building a Dremel Duplicator. It would have three axes and could be utilized much like a CNC Router with the added advantage of copying an existing object.

Ever wanted to have your own CNC machine. Tom McWire made a computer controlled milling machine and put the the information on instructables. This machine puts the real power of a computer controlled machine into the hands of the average human. The machine is made of parts that can be bought in almost every local retail store. And ofcourse is cheap in purchase. The creator said you could have it up and running well under $200. The CNC machine is small enough to be placed on your desk but ofcourse you could also make a bigger one without sacraficing accuracy (too much). The machine can be used for 2 Dimentional engraving and PC board etching and 3D milling and modeling in foam, wood, plastic and various other soft materials.

Here a vid of the build.

Here a video of the machine actually in action.

A Bear is born!, by Ragdoll.

Part 1 – Lets make a baby bear no taller than my mobile phone.
Absolutely ages ago I offered to make Avalon a bear as he doesn’t have one of mine and he had seen the pictures on myspace of the ones I have made.It takes a long time to make as you have to use a very tiny sharp needle and it hurts my fingers when I sew using it, I have not found a thimble that works well enough to help. I have only ever made about 6 bears of 4 different designs so I took my favorite pattern and asked what color he wanted it, I should have know he would pick black, I have never used black before for my bears so didn’t know how good it would be. Luckily for me I managed to get some miniature bear velvet in black.I put the templates on the back of the velvet bear fabric and drew around them with a pen, I then cut out all the pieces allowing a 2-3mm seam allowance past the line so I could use the line as the guide to stitch along. I cut out all the pieces . I use a very fine thread which is called invisible as it is clear. Its very hard to work with but normally gives a better finish. The fabric is special miniature bear velvet, it has a grid on the back to strengthen it when you sew but it is also not very strong when cut in to very small pieces and combined with the thread you have to be very careful.

Part 2 – Where to start sewing?
Been a few months since all the pieces were cut, I cut them out in august 2008 and not touched them until April 2009, I thought I had better start, then I was motivated by doing more as I signed up to Manchester meet. I did the ears first as they are tiny and easy to do, just 2 tiny half circles needing the curve sewn. Then I did the first leg, I had to sew the sides then add in the paw pad on the bottom leaving a gap at the back to turn it right side around and stuff. I then attached the paws to the arms and did the first arm. By now I had already stabbed my finger too much to sew and left it for a while. All the paws are white and made out of a suede like fabric. I chose white as if it was all black it might not look right. I looked at doing them red but I couldn’t get a red that suited it so it was white that was used. Manchester meet was great.

Part 3 – More bear
I then sewed the 2 bear body parts together only allowing a small gap. I turned this around, turned the leg and arm right side and then started on the 2nd leg. A few weeks later (as I was very busy with work, holidays etc) I then completed the head, its made of 3 pieces, 2 sides and a top gusset. The top gusset is a thin strip that gives extra width to the head from the nose up over to the top to the back of the neck. The front of the neck is made by joining the 2 main sides together. I then did the 2nd leg and arm. Now I have all the pieces sewn. All the pieces were turned right side with the black velvet showing, its now time to joint and stuff.

Part 4 – Joints.
The joints are used to make the bears arms and legs move so it can either stand or sit. The joints are a pin which is folder in half with a rounded bend. It has a washer put on it then it is pushed through the fabric in one limb and then the limb is stuffed and sewn up. Once all limbs ( both arms and legs) have been done then you poke the pins in to the places you want the arms and legs to go on the body of the bear and then put on a 2nd washer. The pins now need to be fastened so a key is used, it looks like a screwdriver but with a slot cut out that fit’s the pin. You tighten the pins winding in the metal up so it tightens and secures the limb to the body. Once all these are done and the head fastened you can stuff and sew up.

Part 5 – Birth of a baby bear.
Once the bear has been closed you can attach the ears, eyes, nose and even a mouth if wanted. In this case The ears were sewn in but I moved the right one slightly out of line to give it character. I chose a silver thread to make the nose and a tiny mouth. The eyes are an issue I have yet to solve as normally I use black beads but they will look silly on black fur so I need to decide what to do, my current options are to put white bead eyes on, put silver bead eyes on, put a tiny piece of the fabric used for the paws behind a black bead eye, sew on eyes by using white thread. When the final picture is added you will see my decision. The only other things left are optional. You can make clothes, or add accessories to your bear. I like to just add a simply collar or bow. I always sew the accessory to the bear so it doesn’t fall off.

Now our baby bear is born and all it needs it a loving recipient and a name.